Monday, December 08, 2014

FREE Utility Table Runner How-To Tutorial by Sylvia of "Pieces From My Scrapbag" Blog

Utility Table Runner Tutorial

This is a utility table runner, that uses 3 fabrics plus about a half yard for the backing. It's a quick and easy one, looks good done up in "guy" fabrics if you are doing it for a son or father or uncle. The fabric needs are minimal, using about 14" of 3 different fabrics. If you want one of them for a border or binding (which is what I did) you need more. This one is made from scraps left from my Christmas table cloth quilt. The big quilt goes on the couch and this runner on the coffee table with a pillar candle on it. It's NOT a raving beauty, but a sturdy little pony type that just keeps going and going. This one is already 12 years old and going strong.


Start with 3 contrasting fabrics. You need a LIGHT, MEDIUM and a DARK. Although you see it works with red and green as long as they contrast. You need at least 14" of each fabric X ***14-15" wide*** WOF (width of fabric)***YOU do NOT need WOF unless you want a bigger runner or more sections to play with***.This amount will make a runner that is 16" X 20" without borders. If you want larger, you'll need to make additional sections.

CUTTING:

Dark: cut 1 4.5" strip, 2 3.5" strips,and 3 2.5" strips. Stack separately. Then from the Medium: cut 6 2.5" strips. From the Light: cut 1 4.5" strip, 3 2.5" strips and 2 1.5" strips. Now you've got 9 little piles of strips *VBS* Keep them separated, they tend to fight.

That's it for the cutting. Keep in mind you might want one of these fabrics for the ends (borders)or binding.

Table Runner Project ~ Part 2




Here are the fabrics I've chosen for this runner. The green plaid is possible border on the ends and binding. Correction to my previous post: When cutting, your fabric doesn't need to be WOF(my mistake)This really is a modest fabric requirement project. You only need about 14-15" wide as well as high. So FQ's would work fine..sorry about that. What you'd get from more sewn is the ability to make the runner bigger by making more sub-sections. I'm going to.


Here are my strips...all cut and ready to sew.



This is SECTION #1. Label as such. Sew 1 3.5" dark to 1 4.5" light. Add 1 more 3.5" dark. Press to dark. Set aside labeled #1.



Section #2: Sew 1 medium 2.5" strip to 1 2.5" dark, add 1 2.5" light, and then add 1 2.5" dark again. Finish up with a 2.5" medium. Press to the dark. Label #2 and set aside.

I'll be back with sections #3 and #4. If you are anxious to do more before I get back here, I can tell you that EACH SECTION will get sub-divided into EIGHT(8) 1.5" strips. Be sure to keep the section label attached to the 1.5" strips you cut from the long sections. Isn't this fun?? And fast!

Table Runner Project ~ Part 3




This is Section #3. Make it by sewing: 1 1.5" light to 1 2.5" medium. Add the 4.5" dark strip, followed by a 2.5" medium and then a 1.5" light. Press to dark. Label as section #3. Set aside.



Section #4. Zipping right along, sew 1 2.5" light to 1 2.5" medium. Add 1 2.5" dark, 1 2.5" medium, and finish up with 1 2.5" light. Section #4 is now complete. Press to dark. Label as section #4. Set aside and get ready to SUB-DIVIDE !

The mini-mystery directions call for cutting each section into EIGHT(8) sub-sections of 1.5" each. That is what is pictured in the table runner I showed. Today, because I screwed up and sewed the full WOF, I'm going to cut mine in 2" sub-sections. It will be larger than the 16" X 20" original pattern. It's a good chance for me to see how much bigger, etc.

Now, if you are zipping along, and you have ALL your sub-sections of 8 1.5" strips cut, you can start joining them up *VBS* You are going to be making EIGHT(8) sets of strips. Taking one from each WELL LABELED pile, join a #1 to a #2, then add a #3, and finally a #4. This is now one subsection. It should be approx. 4" X 10"...not sure if that includes the seam allowance or is the finished measurement...I have it written on the pattern in pencil. Just a reference point as to size.

If you've gotten this far, hopefully you are TIRED, or have to make supper or pick up the kids and I will have time to sub-cut mine and get back to you.

Once you've got your 8 sections made and pressed don't do anything but play around with them...LOL I'll give you the final directions in my next post, as to which sides you sew together. Or if you are as clever as me, and as good at ignoring directions, please go ahead and "just do it"...*VBS*

Table Runner Project ~ Part 4




Sew, sew, sew...such a busy day! Here is one of my completed sub-sections. I have all 8 of them made, pressed and the edges straightened up.



Here are 4 of them placed as they would go in the table runner. Join the side with the biggest light(#1 section) to the same side of another unit. You'll get 4 pairs of them that you then join to another unit on the long side. Now you've got 2 units of 4 each. Join those 2 together and you have the bulk of the table runner. Add a border strip (any width that suits you, I usually use a 4.5" piece. Whether or not you choose to add one on all 4 sides is up to you. I like it with just 2. Layer and quilt as desired. Bind if you like, or do a pillowcase turn to avoid binding.

** Because mine sub-sections were cut at 2", you can see more of each fabric I used. Varying the width of the sub-section is up to you. But sewing WOF(even by mistake) enables me to get more than one runner(if I cut at 1.5", or make a bigger one.

This is so fast and easy you certainly can play around with it. I'll show you my 'put together' table runner tomorrow. Thanks for sewing along with me *VBS*



**Found the camera!**Right where I left it *VBS* So here's the picture of MY table runner sewn together. I cut my sub sections at 2", rather than the 1.5" in the directions...so I have a bigger runner. It's 20" X 24".I will be adding a border strip to each end..probably a 4.5" strip, and not the green plaid I had thought I might use. It's just too different.



Just for the heck of it, here is a picture of an 'everyday' runner I use under my sewing machine so it doesn't slip on the table surface. Again, it's about 12 yrs old and going strong.



And this is one of the original ones I made 12 years ago...nice that they don't take much yardage to make up.

Please respect Sylvia's TERMS OF USE: You may make the table runner for personal use or sell for a small personal profit. You may also use my tutorial version to teach a FREE class. Paid classes are prohibited. You may not copy, reprint, email, or redistribute my tutorial version in any manner without my permission.

Original Quilting Pattern Designer - Unknown.

Tutorial Version Created and Written by Sylvia of Pieces From My Scrapbag blog. Sylvia is an experienced quilter who has been quilting for over 30 years. Please visit Sylvia's Pieces From My Scrapbag blog at http://www.finnleah.blogspot.com/ .

Folded Star or Somerset Patchwork Trivet Free Tutorial by Jennifer Richards of Bronze Wombat Blog

I first fell in love with folded quilting when my Mother made her first "folded" quilt pillow years ago. She loved them so much she made "folded" placemats, quilts, wall hangings, pillows, etc. So, of course, when I saw Jennifer Richards folded star or somerset patchwork trivet tutorial on her Bronze Wombat blog I knew I'd have to make one. I hope you enjoy Jennifer's tutorial.


Folded star or Somerset patchwork


Recently Debbie showed a pretty trivet that she received. Many years ago I learned how to do this technique, and finally I have had time to make this tutorial. It's a lot of fun, and not difficult. I will spread it over a few posts as there are lots of pictures - a picture tells a thousand words! - which will show the steps to making Somerset patchwork.

You will need to decide on fabrics. I used Christmas fabrics from my stash as I plan to use it on our Christmas table, but of course it will look good no matter which fabrics are used. There are four rows in the star and each row can be a different fabric, fabrics can be repeated, or more than one fabric can be used in a row. As you can see, my light coloured row uses two different fabrics - the colour tones are the same, but the prints are different. You will also need fabric for the backing and binding, and a piece of muslin for the base. The finished star can be used as a table mat, hot food trivet, pot holder, or on the front of a cushion or bag.

 Fabric 1, centre: Cut four, 3-1/2in (8.75cm) squares.


Fabric 2, first round: cut eight, 5in (12.5cm) squares.

 

Fabric 3, second round: cut eight, 7in (17.5cm) squares. I used two different fabrics for this row as I found that I couldn't get all eight squares from one fat quarter.

 

Fabric 4, third round: cut eight, 6in (15cm) squares.

 

Base fabric: cut one, nine in (22.5cm) square. Fold it into quarters and press, open out then fold diagonally and press. You will have four pressed lines. If preferred the lines can also be drawn using a ruler and marking pencil. This is inside the finished star and will not be seen.

Backing: you may prefer to wait until the top is finished before cutting fabric for backing, as you may wish to alter the size from the dimensions given here.

Binding: you may also want to wait before deciding on a binding width. I cut two strips 1 in (25.4cm) but only needed one for binding. In hindsight they could have been wider, say 1-1/4 in (3.2cm) or even 1-1/2in (3.8cm).

Thread: thread to match each fabric. Points are stitched down by hand so thread will need to match fabrics, outer edges are sewn by machine but as this thread won't be seen in the finished star the colour doesn't matter.

  

Depending in the fabric used, you may be able to finger-press; this will result in soft folds and points. For crisp sharp folds you may prefer to use an iron. I chose to press my fabrics using steam, as the gold metallic designs on some of the fabrics made them stiff.

Take one piece of fabric 1 and fold in half; press. Fold one corner to the middle and press; repeat with the other corner, to make a triangle shape. Make sure the point is on the folded edge, not the open edge.

 

 

Repeat with all squares. If using more than one fabric for a round you may like to layer the fabrics alternately to keep them in order.

 

Using fabric 1 and with the lines on the base fabric as a guide, set the four triangles with the points touching at the centre and the folded edges touching to make a square. Using thread to match fabric 1, stitch the four points to each other and to the base fabric. Stitching just inside the outer edge of fabric 1, sew a row of stitches by machine to hold the square to the base fabric. This row of stitching can be seen in the picture below.

 

Using fabric 2, start the first round. Place the point of a fabric 2 triangle 5/8in (1.5cm) from the centre and pin in place. Continue to place the remaining fabric 2 triangles with the points 5/8in (1.5cm) from the centre point, alternating placement so the points line up with the fold of the square below and with the join between the four sections of the square. Arrange the triangles so they alternate over and under each other. Using thread to match fabric 2, stitch the points to the base fabric, and machine a row of stitches just inside the outer edge as before.

 

Continue to place the next two rows as before. Using fabric 3, make the second round as previous row but with points 1-1/4in (3.1cm) from the centre point. Stitch points and outer edges. Using fabric 4, make the third round with points 1-7/8in (4.7cm) from centre point. The final row will be partly off the edge of the base fabric.

 

This is the time to decide on the finished size. I trimmed my star to make a 9in (22.5cm) circle, but any size from 8-9in (20-22.5cm) diameter would be fine. You can also trim the excess points and leave an octagon shape. If making a circle you will use bias fabric for the binding - if making an octagon or square, you can use straight binding. I used a bias tape maker to make fold lines on my binding.

Trim to shape and size desired. Cut backing fabric the same size - this can be placed on the back of the star, wrong wides together, and trimmed at the same time as the front. It is then ready for binding.

 

With right side of binding to right side of star, pin and stitch. Fold under 1/4in(6mm) on the end of binding so the fold will overlap the join. Stitch all around.

 

Because of the many layers of folded fabric, the edges are bulky. I trimmed some of the bulk away to make it easier to fold the binding to the back. Stitch binding down on the back by hand.

 

In hindsight I would have cut the binding slightly wider to make this step easier, and also for the appearance of the finished piece.

 

Now make a cuppa, sit back and enjoy your handiwork! When I looked at these pictures I realised that I had made a mistake in the light coloured row - the 'under and over' overlapping didn't quite go right at one point. But in the overall scheme of things it doesn't matter.

If you have any questions or comments I would love to have them.

Please respect Jennifer's TERMS OF USE: My tutorial and articles made from my tutorial are intended for personal use only. Commercial use of my tutorial or products made from my tutorial are prohibited without my permission. However, articles made for charity where no payment is going to the maker may be sold as long as  I am credited with the design.

Copyright © 2008 - All Rights Reserved - Written By Jennifer Richards of Bronze Wombat blog at http://bronzewombat.blogspot.com/ .

Christmas Ornies by Julia Camilleri

With Christmas fast approaching, I thought I would take some time to make up some little Christmas ornaments for gifts and ornie swaps.
This is a really easy one to make, with a bit of help I think even the little ones would have fun making these up.

If you don't want to do the cross-stitch, just fussy cut out special sections of Christmas fabric, decorate it with glitter glue and assemble together.

How easy is that!

Requirements:
Plastic milk or juice bottle tops with O-ring seal (washed and dried)
Small pieces of plain fabric (3 ½ inches square) or 14 count Aida cloth for cross-stitch
Threads, ribbons, beads, charms any bits and pieces to embellish the decorations
Thin card to back decoration
Braid to go around the outside of decoration
Narrow ribbon to hang decoration
Clear drying craft glue
General hand sewing requirements
A little time and imagination and just have fun.

Embroider or cross-stitch your design onto the centre of your fabric piece. (Keep the design small so it will fit on the bottle top)
Embellish the design with tiny seed beads, metallic threads, ribbon bows, glitter fabric paint or anything you like.
Place the embroidered design over the bottle top, then place the O ring seal over the top.
Push the seal down as far as it will go to hold the embroidered fabric in place.
Smooth out any wrinkles.
Trim away the excess fabric.
Cut a cover for the back out of the card by tracing around the top and glue to the back.
Starting at the top, glue braid around the outside of the top to cover the plastic ring.
At the top where the braid joins, glue a piece of narrow ribbon long enough to hang the decoration.
Add a little bow to cover the braid and ribbon ends.
Let the glue dry overnight

The decoration is now ready to hang on the tree.

Looks great on door knobs as a decorator piece.


Copyright © 2006—All Rights Reserved — Written By Julia Camilleri on her "Julia's Place" Blog. For more crafting tips and techniques visit Julia's "Julia's Place" blog. Julia is a seamstress who specializes in crazy quilting, ribbon embroidery, and all things Victorian. She sells her handmade items on her "Ribbonwiz Etsy Shoppe." For more pictures of Julia's creations please visit Julia's Flickr site.

Thursday, November 27, 2014

Free Beaded Bauble Tutorial From Julia Camilleri of Julia's Place Blog



Beaded Bauble Tutorial...
Copyright © 2007 — All Rights Reserved — Written By Julia Camilleri

Gumbo Lilly has asked me if there is tutorial for the beaded bauble...

There must be lots of ideas for the beaded baubles, but here I will try to explain how I do mine.

Once you get the basic idea, you can change the layout and the beads to suit yourself.

For this bauble ...

You will need:
Christmas tree ball.
Size 11 gold seed beads.
Gold Bugle beads.
Size 11 green accent seed beads.
Gold flower beads.
Gold teardrop beads.Beading thread.
Size 10 Milliner's (straw) needle.

Thread the needle with a long thread..I cut mine about three metres, it's better than ending off and starting a new piece of thread on all the time, but be very careful when pulling thread through so that it doesn't knot up..

Row 1: String 36 of the gold seed beads, take them down the thread leaving a 3 inch tail, then tie the thread securely together to form a circle... run the short end of thread back through the circle of beads and cut off.

Row 2: Thread on three gold beads, miss two beads in the circle, then take the needle and thread through the next bead and pick up three more beads...Continue in this way to the end of the circle forming 12 loops.

Row 3: Take the needle through to the second bead of row 2 and pick up two gold, one green and two gold beads (5 beads ), and then take needle and thread through to the next second of the three beads from the previous row...continue in this way until you have completed the circle of row 3.

At the end of each row, I like to do a locking knot to keep beads in place and stop them from coming loose as I work the next round.



Pull thread taught and Make a loop with thread in between the last two beads slip needle through loop and carefully pull to secure.



Row 4: Take the needle through to the third (green) bead of row 3 and pick up three gold, one green and three gold beads (7 beads ), and then take needle and thread through to the next third of the five beads from the previous row...continue in this way until you have completed the circle of row 4.

Do a locking knot.

Row 5:Take the needle through to the fourth (green) bead of row 4 and pick up four gold, one green and four gold beads (9 beads ), and then take needle and thread through to the next fourth of the seven beads from the previous row...continue in this way until you have completed the circle of row 5.Locking knot.

Row 6:Take the needle through to the fifth (green) bead of row 5 and pick up one gold bead, one gold bugle bead, one gold bead, one green bead, one gold bead, than another gold bugle bead and one gold bead...refer to picture above.Take these through the green bead of the previous row and continue in the way until you have completed row 6.

Locking knot.

Row 7: Take the needle through to the (green) bead of row 6 and pick up one gold bead, one gold bugle bead, one gold bead, one green bead, one gold bead, than another gold bugle bead and one gold bead...refer to picture above.Take these through the green bead of the previous row and continue in the way until you have completed row 7.

Locking knot.

Row 8 & 9: Same as row 6 & 7.

Row 10: Take the needle through to the (green) bead of row 8 and pick up eleven gold seed beads,

NOTE: (you can put a green bead in the middle of these 11 if you like, it does make it easier to see the middle bead then).Take thread through to the next green bead of previous row, and continue around the circle until completed.Do a double locking knot.

Drops: Take thread to centre of the eleven beads ( sixth bead) from previous row and string on six gold beads, one flower bead, six gold beads, one flower bead, six gold beads, one gold teardrop bead, then one gold bead....bypass this last gold bead and take thread up through the teardrop and the rest of this group of beads to form the drop, then take the thread through the the remaining five beads over to the next green bead of previous row and continue making drops the same length or alternate the lengths like I have, if you like....refer to picture.To end off, just take thread along through some beads and do a locking knot, then take thread through some more beads, do a locking knot and run thread through more beads and cut off.

I hope you can understand my tutorial... you still have a few days to make some beaded baubles before Christmas...have fun!


Please respect Julia's Terms Of Use: Items made from Julia's tutorials are for personal use only. You may make an item for yourself or as a gift, but items made may not be sold either for small personal profit or commercially. Julia's tutorials cannot be copied, reprinted, emailed, or distributed in any manner without Julia's written permission.

Copyright © 2007 — All Rights Reserved — Written By Julia Camilleri for her "Julia's Place" Blog. For more crafting tips and techniques visit Julia's "Julia's Place" blog. Julia is a seamstress who specializes in crazy quilting, ribbon embroidery, and all things Victorian. She sells her handmade items on her "Ribbonwiz Etsy Shoppe." For more pictures of Julia's creations please visit Julia's Flickr site.

How To Make A Green Painted Pinecone Basket - Free How-To by Linda Walsh

Since I had just finished my Linda's Blog post on all the pine cone baskets I had made over twenty years ago I thought you might enjoy a step-by-step "How-to" on how to make one of your own.

My instructions on how to make a pine cone basket of your own are shown below.

How To Make A Green Painted Pinecone Basket

Supplies Needed

1 Large Handle Basket
1 Can Green Spray Paint
1 Can Spray Varnish or Lacquer
1 Bag of Spanish Moss
4 pk OASIS RAINBOW FOAM BRICK TURQUOISE - Enough Floral Foam Bricks To Line The Bottom Of The Basket
1 1/2" to 2" Wide Green Wired Ribbon
Package of Green Preserved Boxwood
Batch of Green Preserved Evergreen Sprigs or Other Green Silk Floral
1/2" to 1" Plaid Cloth Covered Box Decorations
Red Berry Spray With Multiple Berries or Red Berry Picks
1/2" to 1" Shiny Red Apple Decorations
Wire
Dried or Preserved Pine Cones of Various Shapes and Sizes
Dual Temperature Glue Gun
Glue Gun and Glue Sticks
Wire Cutters

Instructions

(Note - These instructions are for ADULT use only as they require the use of a hot glue gun.  Always use caution when working with any kind of hot glue gun.)

1.  Spray paint the inside and outside of the basket with the green paint.  Let dry completely.
2.  Place the Spanish moss along the inside of the basket so as to cover any openings in the sides of the basket.
3.  Pack the bottom of the basket tightly with the floral brick foam to within 4 inches of the top rim of the basket.
4.  Glue the first layer of pine cones to the floral brick foam using the low temperature setting of the dual temperature glue gun.
5.  Arrange the pine cones of various shapes and sizes that you are going to see until they fill the basket and the arrangement is pleasing to the eye.  Then glue them in place using the low temperature setting of the dual temperature glue gun.
6.  Glue the smaller pine cones in between the larger pine cones until all the gaps are filled.
7.  Spray the basket and pine cones with varnish or lacquer.  Let dry completely.
8.  Glue the preserved box wood amongst the pine cones until the arrangement is pleasing to the eye.
9.  Glue the preserved evergreen sprigs or other green silk floral amongst the pine cones until the arrangement is pleasing to the eye.
10.  Glue the 1/2" to 1" plaid cloth covered box decorations amongst the pine cones until their placement is pleasing to the eye.
11.  Glue the 1/2" to 1" Shiny Red Apple Decorations amongst the pine cones until their placement is pleasing to the eye.
12.  Cut the red berries so they are individual and then glue the red berries amongst the pine cones until their placement is pleasing to the eye.
13.  Tie the 1 1/2" to 2" wide green wired ribbon into a large decorative bow with many, many  loops so it is very full and then fasten the bow to the middle of the handle of the basket with the wire.
14.  Congratulations - You're Done!

I also created a .PDF "Linda's How-Do-I Series How To Make A Green Painted Pinecone Basket" e-book for this as well.

To view and download my free e-book please CLICK HERE. You'll be brought to Google Drive where you can view our free e-book. Then just download our free .pdf e-book by clicking on the down arrow in the top center.

For more information on all my free e-patterns, e-printables and e-books please CLICK HERE.

Please respect My Terms of Use:  All patterns, e-patterns, e-books, tutorials, how-to's, and e-products © 2004-2014 Linda Walsh Originals-Designs by Linda Walsh. All rights reserved, including downloading, mass producing, photocopying, enlargements, reductions,and all other forms of reproduction, website sharing, Email, RSS feeds, or any other means of redistribution. Commercial selling or reselling by any means, including eBay or any other website by permission only.

Products made from Linda Walsh Originals patterns, e-patterns, e-books, tutorials, how-to's, and e-products are intended for personal use for fun or small scale personal and business profit as long as you credit us with the design. Large scale commercial use (i.e. mass production) including wholesale distribution, catalog sales, and all other forms of large scale commercial production are by permission only. Items made from Linda Walsh Originals patterns, e-patterns, e-books, tutorials, how-to's, and e-products are intended for decoration only and are not intended for use by children. Not responsible for human error, individual workmanship, or printing errors in the E-books, E-products, tutorials, how-to's, patterns or the E-Patterns.

Copyright © 2004 - 2014 - All Rights Reserved - Written By Linda Walsh of Linda Walsh Originals and Linda's Blog. Linda is a doll maker and doll pattern designer. http://lindawalshoriginalsshop.com/

Monday, November 17, 2014

Tippy The Snow Bunny - Free Pattern From Lisa Bunting Thoms of Q.D. Patooties

I just LOVE adorable "softies."  If you do, too, then you'll be happy to know that Lisa Bunting Thoms of  Q.D. Patooties has another wonderful "softie" pattern to share. I just love Lisa's creations and "Tippy" is just too cute!


Tippy The Snow Bunny
Copyright © 2008-2009 - All Rights Reserved - Lisa Bunting Thoms of Q.D. Patooties


Here's the instructions and what Lisa said about Tippy The Snow Bunny: This pattern is a one that I shared with my newsletter members last year for a cute kid bundled up in a bunny snow suit. You may remember seeing Tippy, the True Blue Snow Bunny on my Blog and briefly in my Etsy shop. Just follow the instructions to make your own Tippy. 

All you need to do is to click on the pattern below and save it to your computer. After you click, the pattern will enlarge.  You should be able to right click, save the image and then print it out. I usually print mine out on card stock so it's easier to trace onto fabric.

You can either insert the face from the back as I did or you can omit cutting out the face in the main body piece of the pattern and just top stitch the face pattern onto the body pattern. There is no seam allowance included in the pattern. I usually just trace it onto the felt fabric and then sew on the line. Also, I used floral wire in my feet so they could be bent and posed. If you have some pipe cleaners they work just as well and then you don't have to stuff the feet as much!

 Click on picture above to enlarge.

Please remember though that the patterns I share with you are for your own personal enjoyment and not to be sold for profit.

Enjoy!!!

Please respect Lisa's TERMS OF USE:  My FREE tutorials, patterns, and how-to's are for personal use only and are not not intended for commercial use. They may not be copied, reprinted, emailed, or reproduced and distributed in any manner without my permission.

Lisa's Bio: Lisa is a professional teddy bear artist selling heirloom quality collectible bears to Adults and has been making bears professionally since November 1997. Her creations have been nominated for several Awards including the TITA, Teddy Bear Scene Reader's Choice Awards and the Ace Awards. They've also been included on a regular basis in many of the major doll and crafts magazines.

Copyright © 2007-2012 - All Rights Reserved - Lisa Bunting Thoms of Q.D. Patooties


Super Sweet Snowman Free Pattern by Lisa Bunting Thoms of Q.D. Patooties

I thought you might all like to know that Lisa Bunting Thoms of  Q.D. Patooties has a wonderful snowman doll pattern to share that I know you're going to love.



Super Sweet Snowman Pattern
Copyright © 2007 - All Rights Reserved - Lisa Bunting Thoms of Q.D. Patooties


CLICK on picture above to enlarge.

Here's the instructions and what Lisa had to say about her Super Sweet Snowman pattern:  Well Christmas may be over but we still have time for Snowmen! At least until March when the weather warms up and the last snowflake disappears. I made this Super Sweet Snowman out of a fat quarter of Alpaca/Cotton Blend batting from Pacafil. To help him stand upright, I used some weighted beads in the bottom of my snowman. I sewed the snowman's body together including the base and then stuffed from the neck opening. Since this batting does have some stretch, it was easy to do. If you're using a fabric with no stretch, leave an opening on the side for stuffing. For the head, I left one of the sides of the snowman's head open a little and then stitched it closed after I stuffed it. The hat hid the hand stitching so it's not even noticeable.

The pattern I made for you includes the pieces for the snowman's head and body. For the hat, I just took a wool sock and cut a tube from it that stood up on his head and added about four extra inches to his height. Then, I just gathered it as close to his head as possible with some embroidery floss and fringed the top to look like a pom pom. I sewed my hat onto the head but you don't have to do that if you don't want to as you may prefer to decorate yours differently. The felt snowman hats that you purchase at your local craft store fit this pattern perfectly. Since the batting has some stretch to it, your snowman will turn out taller than in the pattern. If you use a fabric that doesn't have much stretch, he will be a little stubbier so take that into consideration when you pick your fabric. Or, you may want to just add on a couple of inches to the bottom of your pattern to give him a little more height. I also did not include the pattern for the nose because you may prefer to use a button nose. If you want to make a carrot nose like I did, I took a piece of orange wool felt that was about 2 inches in length and then cut it at an angle. 

Anyway, have fun with this winter project and make yourself a chilly little friend. You can really make him prim if you like or you can make him really contemporary by using some funky fleece. If you make one, please send me a picture as I'd love to see it!
All you need to do is to click on the pattern below and save it to your computer. After you click, the pattern will enlarge. Then, just right click and "Save Image As" to save it to your computer. 

Enjoy!


Please respect Lisa's TERMS OF USE:  My FREE tutorials, patterns, and how-to's are for personal use only and are not not intended for commercial use. They may not be copied, reprinted, emailed, or reproduced and distributed in any manner without my permission.

Lisa's Bio: Lisa is a professional teddy bear artist selling heirloom quality collectible bears to Adults and has been making bears professionally since November 1997. Her creations have been nominated for several Awards including the TITA, Teddy Bear Scene Reader's Choice Awards and the Ace Awards. They've also been included on a regular basis in many of the major doll and crafts magazines.

Copyright © 2007-2012 - All Rights Reserved - Lisa Bunting Thoms of Q.D. Patooties

Tuesday, November 11, 2014

Lucy Angel Free E-Pattern From Linda Walsh Of Linda Walsh Originals


Lucy is not only the most adorable of our angels, she is also one of the smallest. She only stands 4" tall, but she is a mighty angel. In fact, Lucy is the "boss" of all the angels. She assigns the tasks to the various other angels and keeps an eye out for them. Despite her small size Lucy has a HUGE heart.

Lucy Angel is an adorable little angel. She is a free-standing angel doll with a wood doll pin body and head. Her wood head is painted and she has short curly hair and a halo. Her dress is made from wide wired ribbon and is decorated with a ribbon sash, and floral ribbon decoration.


“Lucy Angel”, 4” Angel - Country Angel Woodcraft Doll E-Pattern - Christmas Series - Pattern Category - Skill Level - Beginner

Copyright © 2004 - 2014 - All Rights Reserved - Written By Linda Walsh 

To view and download my free e-pattern please CLICK HERE. You'll be brought to Google Drive where you can view our free e-pattern. Then just download our free .pdf e-pattern by clicking on the down arrow in the top center.

For more information on all my free e-patterns, e-printables and e-books please CLICK HERE.

Please respect My Terms of Use:  All patterns, e-patterns, e-books, tutorials, how-to's, and e-products © 2004-2014 Linda Walsh Originals-Designs by Linda Walsh. All rights reserved, including downloading, mass producing, photocopying, enlargements, reductions,and all other forms of reproduction, website sharing, Email, RSS feeds, or any other means of redistribution. Commercial selling or reselling by any means, including eBay or any other website by permission only.

Products made from Linda Walsh Originals patterns, e-patterns, e-books, tutorials, how-to's, and e-products are intended for personal use for fun or small scale personal and business profit as long as you credit us with the design. Large scale commercial use (i.e. mass production) including wholesale distribution, catalog sales, and all other forms of large scale commercial production are by permission only. Items made from Linda Walsh Originals patterns, e-patterns, e-books, tutorials, how-to's, and e-products are intended for decoration only and are not intended for use by children. Not responsible for human error, individual workmanship, or printing errors in the E-books, E-products, tutorials, how-to's, patterns or the E-Patterns.

Copyright © 2004 - 2014 - All Rights Reserved - Written By Linda Walsh of Linda Walsh Originals and Linda's Blog. Linda is a doll maker and doll pattern designer. http://lindawalshoriginalsshop.com/

Friday, October 24, 2014

Oh, My! It's So Late, Santa!" - Free E-Pattern From Linda Walsh of Linda Walsh Originals



"Oh, My! It's So Late, Santa!" is a frazzled Munchkin Santa" who just can't believe what day it is and what time it is. How is he ever got to finish everything in time to get the presents to the good girl and boy munchkins? There's just no way. Grr.......

And, he's getting so frantic about it his hair is standing on end? Grr....... And, he can't sleep - which explains his sunken munchkin eyes. Grr..... And, he's so mad that he's so late! Grr.....

He's getting so frantic about it he can barely look at the calendar. Grr...... What to do! What to do! What should he do? Grr.....

There's just no time. Grr..............!

"Oh, My! It's So Late, Santa!" is a 9" country Santa ornament. He has a puffy, round muslin head. His face is drawn and he has sunken black bead eyes , a gathered and filled nose, blushed cheeks and oodles of freckles. His eyebrows, mustaches, and scraggly beard are made of raw mohair.

He has thick, straight, white yarn hair that is as frazzled as he is.

He is wearing his favorite fringed holiday shirt which is gathered in the center back. His pants are gathered at the waist and at the top of his black boots.

"Oh, My! It's So Late, Santa!" is so frazzled he just wants to cover his face with his hands. It's So Late! Grr..... What should he do? Grr...... What should he do? Grr......

He doesn't want to disappoint all the good "munchkin" boys and girls. What should he do? Grr.........

“Oh, My! It's So Late, Santa!” - 9” Country & Folkart Santa Ornament E-Pattern - Christmas Series - Pattern Category - Skill Level - Beginner
Copyright © 2004 - 2014 - All Rights Reserved - Written By Linda Walsh

To view and download my free e-pattern please CLICK HERE. You'll be brought to Google Drive where you can view our free e-pattern. Then just download our free .pdf e-pattern by clicking on the down arrow in the top center.

For more information on all my free e-patterns, e-printables and e-books please CLICK HERE.

Please respect My Terms of Use:  All patterns, e-patterns, e-books, tutorials, how-to's, and e-products © 2004-2014 Linda Walsh Originals-Designs by Linda Walsh. All rights reserved, including downloading, mass producing, photocopying, enlargements, reductions,and all other forms of reproduction, website sharing, Email, RSS feeds, or any other means of redistribution. Commercial selling or reselling by any means, including eBay or any other website by permission only.

Products made from Linda Walsh Originals patterns, e-patterns, e-books, tutorials, how-to's, and e-products are intended for personal use for fun or small scale personal and business profit as long as you credit us with the design. Large scale commercial use (i.e. mass production) including wholesale distribution, catalog sales, and all other forms of large scale commercial production are by permission only. Items made from Linda Walsh Originals patterns, e-patterns, e-books, tutorials, how-to's, and e-products are intended for decoration only and are not intended for use by children. Not responsible for human error, individual workmanship, or printing errors in the E-books, E-products, tutorials, how-to's, patterns or the E-Patterns.

Copyright © 2004 - 2014 - All Rights Reserved - Written By Linda Walsh of Linda Walsh Originals and Linda's Blog. Linda is a doll maker and doll pattern designer. http://lindawalshoriginalsshop.com/

Monday, October 20, 2014

Linda's How-Do-I Series? How To Create Fast and Easy Cloth Ornaments Free E-Book by Linda Walsh of Linda Walsh Originals



If you are looking for a fun decorating craft to do with the kids this holiday season you're going to love our fast and easy cloth ornaments.  Enjoy.

To view and download my free e-book please CLICK HERE. You'll be brought to Google Drive where you can view our free e-book. Then just download our free .pdf e-book by clicking on the down arrow in the top center.

For more information on all my free e-patterns, e-printables and e-books please CLICK HERE.

Please respect My Terms of Use:  All patterns, e-patterns, e-books, tutorials, how-to's, and e-products © 2004-2014 Linda Walsh Originals-Designs by Linda Walsh. All rights reserved, including downloading, mass producing, photocopying, enlargements, reductions,and all other forms of reproduction, website sharing, Email, RSS feeds, or any other means of redistribution. Commercial selling or reselling by any means, including eBay or any other website by permission only.

Products made from Linda Walsh Originals patterns, e-patterns, e-books, tutorials, how-to's, and e-products are intended for personal use for fun or small scale personal and business profit as long as you credit us with the design. Large scale commercial use (i.e. mass production) including wholesale distribution, catalog sales, and all other forms of large scale commercial production are by permission only. Items made from Linda Walsh Originals patterns, e-patterns, e-books, tutorials, how-to's, and e-products are intended for decoration only and are not intended for use by children. Not responsible for human error, individual workmanship, or printing errors in the E-books, E-products, tutorials, how-to's, patterns or the E-Patterns.

Copyright © 2004 - 2014 - All Rights Reserved - Written By Linda Walsh of Linda Walsh Originals and Linda's Blog. Linda is a doll maker and doll pattern designer. http://lindawalshoriginalsshop.com/